COSMETOLOGY:
INTRODUCTION:
Cosmetology (from Greek kosmētikos, "beautifying"; and -λογία, -logia) is the study and application of beauty treatment. Branches of specialty include hairstyling, skin care, cosmetics, manicures/pedicures, non-permanent hair removal such as waxing and sugaring, and permanent hair removal processes such as electrology and intense pulsed light (IPL).
WHERE AND WHEN COSMETOLOGY BEGAN:
Make-up and cosmetics were used long before the first century. As for who the first cosmetologist was, that’s debatable. If we’re talking about the first person or people to actually mix ingredients together for the purpose of applying and beautifying, then most would give the Egyptians that title. Although some sources say the first cosmetologists were ancient hunters who used urine and mud to camouflage their scent, in that case everything from bug spray to VapoRub is a cosmetic. Not all materials that are mixed together and applied to the face qualify as cosmetics.
Max Factor, while being a cosmetic line to this day, is also a man who is generally credited for inventing modern day makeup, because he successfully marketed the make-up he created for both movie actresses and everyday women in the first couple decades of the 20th century. Also during that time, Maybelline was created by 19 yr. old entrepreneur, T.L. Williams, who came up with the name by fusing the name of his older sister Mabel, and Vaseline – the main product used in the company’s first mascara.
Madam C.J. Walker was not only the first black female entrepreneur in the U.S., but she was the first female self-made millionaire who built her business upon cosmetics, hair, and beauty products for black women.
HOW COSMETOLOGY HAS CHANGED:
That said, Egyptians are typically regarded as being the first “cosmetologists,” due to archeological discoveries of primitive make-up kits, and, of course, the Egyptian art that shows us how and where they wore make-up. They were known to neighboring cultures for “painting their eyes” using eyeliner and primitive mascara – and in a style and manner that is still replicated today whenever someone wants to emulate the Cleopatra look. Egyptians used kohl for eyeliner, as well as a
galena, which was a type of lead. Red ochre was also used to redden the lips, which was crushed into a powder.
The Romans and the Greeks soon followed the precedent set by the Egyptians. The first commercialized cosmetics were made in ancient Rome, and they included both higher quality and lower quality products. Wealthy women wore expensive cosmetic imports from China and Gaul, while poorer women bought cheap knock-offs – however, because make-up was and still can be a time-consuming affair, many poorer women simply didn’t have the time or the female servants to apply it.
USE OF COSMETICS:
Cosmetics use is a part of the larger topic of personal decoration, including clothing, hairstyle, and other forms of body decoration such as tattooing, scarification, and piercing.
Cosmetic products are used to care for face and the body or to enhanced or change the appearance of face or body.
Cosmetic product used to cleanse, such as shampoo, toothpaste, body wash and face cleanser.
Cosmetic product used to replenish and protect the skin, such as toners, serums, moisturizers and body creams.
Cosmetic products are used to improve the appearance, feel and manageability of hair, such as Hair Tonic, Hair Conditioner etc.
Cosmetic products are used to change the color of hairs, such as Hair Dyes.
COSMETIC PREPARATION:
LIPSTICKS:
DEFINITION:
Lipstick may be basically defined as dispersion of the coloring matter in a base consisting of a suitable blend of oils, fats and waxes with suitable perfumes and flavors molded in the form of sticks to impart attractive gloss and color, when applied on lips. Lipsticks provide moist appearance to the lips accentuating them and disguising their defects.
COMPOSITION:
The raw materials involved the formulation of the lipsticks could be as follows:
The solid components / waxes: (a) the hydrocarbon waxes (b) The mineral waxes (c) Hard waxes (d) Micro crystalline waxes
The liquid components : (Mineral oils, vegetable oils, castor oils, butyl stearate, Glycol, water, silicon-fluids, IPM (isopropyl maleate)
The softening components: (Anhydrous lanoline, lanolin cocoa butter, lecithin, petrolatum)
The coloring agents: (Carmine, dyestuff stain, pigmented stain, lakes etc.)
Pearlescent pigments: (Guanine crystals, bismuth oxychloride)
Opacifying agents: (Titanium dioxide)
Perfumeries: (Rose oil, cinnamon oil, lavender oil etc.)
Miscellaneous agents: (a) Preservatives (b) Antioxidants (c) Flavoring agents
FORMULA
% in amount
Castor oil (dissolving liquid)
20%
bees wax (stiffening agent)
6%
Ozokerite wax (increase melting point)
4%
Carnauba wax (provides rigidity)
3%
lanolin (covering agent/Emollient)
6%
Paraffin(stiffening agent)
12%
Oleyl alcohol (co-solvent)
10%
Titanium dioxide
10%
pigments & dyes
10%
perfume
0.75%
METHOD OF PREPARATION:
Take castor oil and lanolin alcohol , and oleyl alcohol in a beaker(A) containing dyes and pigments.
Heat the mixture above 70 degrees C.
Take remaining ingredient in beaker(B). heat them to 70 degrees C.
Now add solution of beaker(A) into Beaker(B) by vigorous stirring.
Now this solution is added into molds.
USES/APPLICATION OF LIPSTICK:
Lipsticks are applied on lips for colors and texture.
Lipsticks provide protection to lips.
COLD CREAMS:
DEFINITION:
Cold cream is an emulsion of water and certain fats, usually including beeswax and various scent agents, designed to smooth skin and remove makeup.
COMPOSITION:
FORMULA
QUANTITY FOR 100 g
White beeswax (emollient)
20 g
Mineral oil (lubricant)
50 g
Distilled water (vehicle)
28.8 g
Borax (buffer)
0.7 g
Perfume (odor)
0.5 g
METHOD OF PREPARATION:
Beeswax is melted in a container by using water bath to a temperature of about 70° C. Then mineral oil is added to the melted beeswax. This is mixture A.In another container, water is heated to a temperature of about 70° C and borax is dissolved in it. This is mixture B. Mixture B (aqueous phase) is added slowly to mixture A (oily phase) along with stirring. Stirring is carried out until a creamy emulsion is formed. Finally, perfume is added to the preparation when it attains a temperature of about 40°C.
USES/APPLICATION OF COLD CREAMS:
As a makeup remover; They are used for the purpose of removing makeup,
As a face cleanser; Its moisturizing + cleansing properties will leave your skin soft, smooth, and hydrated.
As a lip balm; Cold cream is also use as a lip balm to moisturize the lips.
As an elbow, knee, and heel moisturizer; Cold cream's thick texture will soften the dry scaly skin of elbows, knees, and heels of feet.
FACE POWDER:
DEFINITION:
Face powder is a cosmetic powder used to improve the appearance of the face by reducing shine and concealing blemishes.
COMPOSITION:
FORMULA
QUANTITY FOR 100 g
Talc (Slip Character)
63 g
Kaolin (Covering Materials)
20 g
Calcium Carbonate (Absorbent)
5 g
Zinc Oxide (Covering Materials)
5 g
Zinc Stearate (Slip Character)
5 g
Magnesium Carbonate (Absorbent)
1 g
Color
0.5 g
Perfume (Odour)
0.5 g
METHOD OF PREPARATION:
It is a dry mixing method.
Perfume is added to some part of calcium carbonate, which is absorbent and mixed thoroughly. This preparation is kept aside for some time. This is mixture A.
Color is add added to some part-of talc and mixed thoroughly. This is mixture B. Then kaolin, zinc oxide, zinc stearate, magnesium carbonate and remaining part of calcium carbonate and talc are added to mixture B and mixed properly. Mixture A is added to the above mixture and mixing is carried out. Finally, the preparation is sieved by using either a silk mesh or nylon cloth.
USE/APPLICATION OF FACE POWDER:
Face powder is used to improve the appearance of the face by reducing shine and concealing blemishes.
Face powder makes skin smoother.
Face powder helps makeup last longer.
Face powder is used to enhance the Look.
HAIR DYES:
DEFINITION:
Hair colorants are the cosmetic preparations which are used by men and women either to change the natural hair color or to mask grey hair.
COMPOSITION:
FORMULA
QUANTITY FOR 100 g
Stearic acid (anionic surfactant)
15 g
Triethanolamine (surfactant)
7 g
Beeswax (wax)
50 g
Carnauba wax(wax)
13 g
Ozokerite (wax)
7 g
Glyceryl mono stearate (surfactant )
6 g
Tragacanth (gum)
2 g
Color
q. s
METHOD OF PREPARATION:
glyceryl monostearate, Triethanolamine, and tragacanth are heated up to 70°C. Stearic acid is incorporated in the mixture and the mixture is heated up to 75°C. Beeswax and carnauba wax are melted separately at 70--80°C. The molten waxes are added to the above mixture and stirred well. Color is added and the mixture is stirred well. This mixture is then poured into the molds.
USE/APPLICATION OF HAIR DYES:
Hair dyes are used to change the natural hair color or to mask grey hair.
SHAMPOO:
DEFINITION:
Shampoo is a liquid preparation for washing the hair. [OR]
A viscous cosmetic preparation with synthetic detergent used for washing hair is called shampoo.
COMPOSITION:
FORMULA
QUANTITY FOR 100 g
Triethanolamine lauryl sulphate (surfactant)
50 g
Water
48 g
Stearic acid
2 g
Color
q. s
Perfume (odor)
q. s
Preservative
q. s
METHOD OF PREPARATION:
Triethanolamine lauryl sulphate and Stearic acid are heated upto 65 degree C.
Water and preservative are also heated upto 65 degree C.
Now both solution are mixed together and then keep for a time to cooled.
After cooling perfume are added.
In final step shampoo filled in bottle by the help of automatic bottle filling machine.
USE/APLLICATION OF SHAMPOO:
Shampoo is used for washing the hair.
Shampoo cleans the scalp by removing dirt.
Shampoo makes hair longer and stronger.
Shampoo can be works as a great substitute shaving cream.
Shampoo removes dandruff from scalp.
PERFUME:
DEFINITION:
Perfume is a fragrant liquid typically made from essential oils extracted from flowers and spices, used to give a pleasant smell to one's body.
COMPOSITION:
1/2 ounce jojoba oil or sweet almond oil
2-1/2 ounces ethanol
2 tablespoons spring water or distilled water (not tap water)
Coffee filter
Dark-colored glass bottle
25 drops essential oil.
METHOD OF PREPARATION:
Add the jojoba oil or sweet almond oil to your bottle. Add the essential oils. Add 2.5 ounces of alcohol. Shake the bottle for a couple of minutes, and then let it sit for between 48 hours to 6 weeks. The scent will change over time, becoming strongest at around six weeks. When the scent is where you want it to be, add 2 tablespoons of spring water to the perfume. Shake the bottle to mix the perfume, and then filter it through a coffee filter before pouring it into its final bottle. You may pour a little perfume into a decorative bottle, but in general, perfume should be stored in a sealed bottle, away from heat and light.
USE/APPLICATION OF PERFUME:
Perfume is used to give a pleasant smell to one's body.
Perfume is also used to give a pleasant smell to clothes.
TOOTHPASTE:
DEFINITION:
Toothpaste is a thick, soft, moist substance used on a brush for cleaning one's teeth.
COMPOSITION:
FORMULA
% W/W
Dicalcium phosphate
45
Glycerin
30
Sodium lauryl sulphate
1.2
PEG
5.9
Peppermint oil
q. s
Gum tragacanth
2
Water
Upto 100
METHOD OF PREPARATION:
Mix Gum tragacanth and humectant with water. Add dicalcium phosphate in the mixture. Add slowly by slowly flavor and SLS in the mixture with gently stirring. In final the product(toothpaste) is packed and labelled.
USE/APPLICATION OF TOOTHPASTE:
Toothpaste is used on brush to clean the teeth.
Toothpaste is used as a cure of teeth and gums problems.
Toothpaste is used to promote oral hygiene.
Toothpaste is also used as mouth refresher.
ROUGE:
DEFINITION:
Rouge also called blush, is a cosmetic for coloring the cheeks in varying shades, or the lips red. It is applied as a powder or cream.
COMPOSITION:
FORMULA
QUANTITY FOR 100 g
Zinc oxide
5 g
Zinc stearate
5 g
Talcum powder
80 g
Rice starch
10 g
Perfume
q. s
Color
q. s
METHOD OF PREPARATION:
Mixed all the powder and incorporate with the perfume and color. Now this molded form is compressed to expel the air from the powder. After this step the product is dried at a specific temperature to avoid dry mist and an undesirable top cast.
USE/APPLICATION OF ROUGH:
Rough is applied for coloring the cheeks in varying shades.
Rough is used for enhancing the face beauty.
Rough is used to increase freshness of face skin.
HAIR CONDITIONER:
DEFINITION:
Hair conditioner is a hair care product used to improve the appearance, feel and manageability of hair.
COMPOSITION:
FORMULA
% W/W
Cetyl triamide ammonium bromide (CTAB)
30%
3.00
Ceto stearyl alcohol
2.80
Citric acid
pH 3.0 to 5.0
Water
Upto 100
Perfume
q. s
Preservative
q. s
Color
q. s
METHOD OF PREPARATION:
Add 90% of the water and add CTAB in the main manufacturing vessel. Heat upto 70-75 degrees C. melt cetyl alcohol in a vessel. Heat upto 70-75 degrees C. when both phases are at 70-75 degrees C, add the oil phase to water phase with homogenization to form an emulsion. When the emulsion has formed, commence the cooling to 40 degrees C with paddle stirring only. Dissolve the preservative in a portion of reserved water. Add to the main vessel with continuous mixing. Add color to the main vessel and continue to cool. After this add fragrance to the main vessel. Mixed until the homogenous product is obtained. Adjust the pH with Citric acid dissolved in water to pH 3.0-5.0. and cool to 35 degrees C.
USE/APPLICATION OF HAIR CONDITIONER:
Hair conditioner is used to improve the appearance, feel and manageability of hair.
VANISHING CREAM:
DEFINITION:
They are oil in water type of emulsion. When applied on the surface of skin, they spread as thin oil less film which is not visible to the naked eye. Hence, they are called as vanishing creams.
COMPOSITION:
FORMULA
QUANTITY FOR 100 g
Stearic acid (lubricant)
24 g
Potassium hydroxide (softening agent)
1 g
Water (vehicle)
64 g
Glycerin (humectants)
10.5 g
Perfume (odor)
0.5 g
METHOD OF PREPARATION:
Stearic acid is melted in a container by using water bath.
Potassium hydroxide is dissolved in water and then glycerin is added. This mixture is heated to a temperature of about 75' C. This is aqueous phase.
Slowly aqueous phase is added to melted stearic acid along with continuous stirring. Perfume is added to the preparation when it attains a temperature of 40° C.
USE/APPLICATION OF VANISHING CREAM:
They are used to hold powder on the skin as well as to improve adhesion.
Vanishing cream is used to prevent the loss of moisture from dry skin.
Vanishing cream is used to smoothen the skin and keep it soft.
Vanishing cream is used to prevent skin from roughening.
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